It is … If you have Moen faucet, you can usually find a model-specific cartridge puller for that faucet. And they knew we were going to tile. How do these work? After a deep breath and closer examination, I concluded that my plumber had roughed in the valve too far forward. The depth of the shower valve to the finished wall surface is critical -- too deep and the handle won't fit on the stem. Please Help! Anyway, it is now too far recessed and the handle has a piece (which I forgot to take a picture) that fits over the stem. Stick the valve in an area thats nearest to the entrance to the shower so you can turn it on and bring it to temperature before stepping in. You use one of these by locking the base onto the valve housing and screwing the central screw into the hole on the valve stem for the handle. Or would you prefer a shower arm with a 90-degree bend so you can experience a falling rain effect. When attempting to install shower body trim I am now realizing that the plumber installed the shower valve too close in the wall cavity and is sticking out too far. The wall trim plate attached fine but the lever was about an inch out away from the trim plate. Plan to go into the other side of the wall before knocking out any tile. Turns out, they put the mount for the wall faucets too far in the wall! Is there a trim piece I can get to cover this gap between the back plate and the handle? For example, the Moen 104421 cartridge puller works with 1200, 1222 and 1225 cartridges, and it makes other pullers for different models. The shower flange is a small decorative piece with an important job, it covers the hole in your wall where the pipe sticks out! Ok, all was going relatively well until I asked the plumbers to come back and put in the shower valve plate and the wall mounted faucets. For the benefit of future readers, if the valve body is installed with the plaster ground flush with finished wall, the valve handle WILL stick out too far. In the example shower system, we are showing Delta's large overhead rain showerhead mounted to a shower arm with a bend. quote; If the valve is 1/4-3/8" too far back, will a 1" extension, then, make it stick way too far out? It's supposed to be the 'gauge' to set the depth of the valve in the wall. I do not want to open the wall up so the plumber can correct the pipes. Quite often with walk in wet rooms we would install an on off valve at the entry and diverter in the shower, both lengthwise on one wall and the shower on the other wall. Since the backerboard is not installed yet - essentially giving me access to the valve - would it be considered better to try and move the valve, or is a … A new shower will have plumbing for the shower valve which installs in the wall cavity behind the wall with the shower head and adjustment knob. The "plaster ground" is the plastic piece that comes with the valve, some are white, some are black. All I could think about was what a huge pain in the ass it was going to be to rip the finished wall off to move the valve. Leaking water from the valve itself, or behind the wall of the shower can cause irreversible damage to the tile.If the tiles around the shower are loose, show mold often, or there are stains on the ceiling surrounding the shower set-up, you may want to check the plumbing and your shower valve. I no longer have access to the valve itself since dry wall, thinset, kerdi, and more thinset is surrounding the valve stem coming out of the wall. 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